India’s ‘superfood’ jackfruit goes global

first_imgGreen, spiky and with a strong, sweet smell, the bulky jackfruit has morphed from a backyard nuisance in India’s south coast into the meat-substitute darling of vegans and vegetarians in the West.Part of the South Asia’s diet for centuries, jackfruit was so abundant that tons of it went to waste every year.But now India, the world’s biggest producer of jackfruit, is capitalizing on its growing popularity as a “superfood” meat alternative — touted by chefs from San Francisco to London and Delhi for its pork-like texture when unripe. “The jackfruit tacos have been a hit at each and every location. The jackfruit cutlet — every table orders it, it’s one of my favorites!”James Joseph quit his job as a director at Microsoft after spotting Western interest in jackfruit “gaining momentum as a vegan alternative to meat”. “There are a lot of enquiries from abroad… At the international level, the interest in jackfruit has grown manifold,” Varghese Tharakkan tells AFP from his orchard in Kerala’s Thrissur district.The fruit, which weighs five kilograms on average, has a waxy yellow flesh when ripe and is eaten fresh, or used to make cakes, juices, ice creams and crisps. When unripe, it is added to curries or fried, minced and sautéed. In the West, shredded jackfruit has become a popular alternative to pulled pork and is even used as a pizza topping.”People love it,” Anu Bhambri, who owns a chain of restaurants in the US and India, explains.  Jack of all fruits The COVID-19 crisis, Joseph says, has created two spikes in consumer interest. “Coronavirus caused a fear for chicken and people switched to tender jackfruit. In Kerala, lockdown caused a surge in demand for mature green jackfruit and seeds due to shortage of vegetables due to border restrictions,” he explains. Global interest in veganism was already soaring pre-pandemic, buoyed by movements such as Meat Free Mondays and Veganuary, and with it the business of “alternative meats”.Concerns about health and the environment — a 2019 UN report suggested adopting more of a plant-based diet could help mitigate climate change — mean consumers are turning to brands such as Impossible and Beyond Meat for plant-based replications of chicken, beef, and pork. But they are also using substitutes long popular in Asia such as soy-based tofu and tempeh, and wheat derivative seitan, as well as jackfruit.This boom has meant more and more jackfruit orchards have sprung up in the coastal state.”You get a hard bite like meat — that’s what is gaining popularity and like meat it absorbs the spices,” comments Joseph.His firm sells jackfruit flour which can be mixed with or used as an alternative to wheat and rice flour to make anything from burger patties to local classics such as idli.Joseph worked with Sydney University’s Glycemic Index Research Service to establish any health benefits. “When we did a nutritional analysis, we found jackfruit as a meal is better than rice and roti [bread] for an average person who wants to control his blood sugar,” he adds. India has one of the highest diabetes rates in the world and is expected to hit around 100 million cases by 2030, according to a study by The Lancet. center_img ‘Secrets of success’As global warming wreaks havoc on agriculture, food researchers say jackfruit could emerge as a nutritious staple crop as it is drought-resistant and requires little maintenance.Tharakkan has not looked back since he switched from growing rubber to jackfruit on his land, and has a variety that he can cultivate year-round. “When I cut down my rubber trees everyone thought I had gone crazy. But the same people now come and ask me the secret of my success,” he smiles. In Tamil Nadu and Kerala alone, demand for jackfruit is now 100 metric tons every day during the peak season yielding a turnover of $19.8 million a year, says economics professor S. Rajendran of the Gandhigram Rural Institute.But there is rising competition from countries such as Bangladesh and Thailand.Jackfruit’s newfound international fame is a massive turnaround for a plant that while used in local dishes, has long been viewed as a poor man’s fruit.Each tree can yield as 150-250 fruits a season. In Kerala, where it is believed to have originated, deriving its name from local word “chakka”, Tharakkan recalls it was not unusual to see notices in private gardens asking people to take away the fruit for free because they were so plentiful, they would simply rot and attract flies.  And while India’s jackfruit growers — like the wider agriculture sector — have been hit as the nationwide coronavirus lockdown causes a shortage of labor and transport, international demand shows no sign of slowing. Sujan Sarkar, the Palo Alto-based executive chef of Bhambri’s restaurants, believes even meat-eaters are becoming jackfruit converts.He adds: “It’s not only vegetarians or vegans, even the meat-eaters, they just love it.” Topics :last_img read more

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Legend Lara hoping to make a difference in mental approach

first_imgST JOHN’S, Antigua (CMC) – Batting legend Brian Lara has identified the mental aspect as a critical area of focus for West Indies, and believes he can play a significant role in strengthening the Caribbean side in this regard, as they prepare to face India in a two-Test series starting here tomorrow.The former West Indies captain is part of the ongoing preparation camp which started last Friday at the Vivian Richards Cricket Ground, where he has been lending his vast experience to the cadre of young batsmen.Lara said while the technical skills and work ethics were present in the squad, a key area to address was the mental approach.“What I’ve seen in the camp is intense practice which is good. I think the intensity I’ve seen in this camp is very good. The young players are working hard, Floyd Reifer and his team are actually putting things together pretty good,” the 50-year-old Lara said.“Where I feel I can make an impact is their mental approach to the game. I feel as if I was to strike on one thing that I was decent at was mentally where I prepared myself strongly and I think something might be missing.“The practical side is there for the young players but I feel, mentally, they can grow a little bit and learn a little bit more.”West Indies face India in the opening Test at the Vivian Richards Cricket Ground, hoping their wretched record against the visitors which has seen them without a single Test win in nearly two decades.However, they will be hoping to build on their success in their only Test series this year when they stunned world number one England 2-1 in a three-Test series in the Caribbean.Lara, who plundered 11 953 runs from 131 Tests during an illustrious career, said that a series win was an excellent foundation on which a turnaround could begin.“I decided to join the camp simply because I feel this present crop of West Indies players, especially in the Test arena, is the right group of players,” said Lara, who remains the record-holder for the highest Test and first class scores.“The talent that’s within is there. The performance against England to win a series at home, I think is the start of something really good for us. We must lay the foundation at home first before we travel abroad in foreign conditions to sort of take command of situations.”Lara has been joined in the camp by another West Indies captain and stroke-maker, Ramnaresh Sarwan, who also worked with the Windies side ahead of the Ireland Tri-Nations Series in April.Together, it is hoped they can inspire the current Windies batting group in what will be a difficult series against a world class bowling attack.Lara, a formidable opponent during his playing career, said it was important to see the young batsmen develop their obvious potential.“I’m hoping that I can impart some type of knowledge, some of my experiences in the past to the young batsmen we have in the team, to see if we can get a little bit more out of them because it’s necessary,” he said.“It’s a good group of young players, we just have to get them thinking in the right way.”last_img read more

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